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第18回 西東京ブロック篇
第18回 西東京ブロック

怪異飲食店行列

 一年半にわたって全国で展開してきた「麺の甲子園」は今回の西・東京ブロックが地方大会最終戦である。
 地元であるからいつもの審議団というか、麺の巡礼団というか、胃袋麻痺団というか、まあとにかくこの取材の関係者五人、それぞれの家から第一試合の現場に直接集合、ということになった。
 集合時間は午前十一時だがいつものとおり全員朝食抜きである。梅雨のさなかであった。しかし空腹であるから第一試合有利説は雨模様でもゆるがないだろう。
 まずは青山の「武蔵」。東京で今一番人気のあるラーメン屋「武蔵」の新宿店は毎日大行列なのでスケジュールを作る杉原は同じ味である筈の青山店を選んだのである。
 それにしても「ラーメンと行列」はつきものになってしまった。
 そこで今回はまず「行列」について最初に考察しておきたい。こういう取材でなければ絶対に自分は並ぶことはなかっただろうから考えること多々であった。
 食い物屋に並ぶ行列はきわめて日本的なものだろう。外国で食い物屋に並ぶ行列の記憶をさぐる。日本と国交回復した直後の中国と、まだソ連といっていた頃のロシアぐらいだろうか。これは人間の数に対して店の数が極端に少ない、ということが単純な理由だった。アメリカのハンバーガーショップに行列がないように、交通便利な大都市でのファストフードに近いラーメン屋で行列を作る国というのは極めて奇異なことなのだ。ラオスやベトナムにもビーフン系のフォーやフーとよぶ麺の繁盛店はあるが、店がいっぱいだと別のところに行ってしまう。暑い国だから路上に並んで待つなんて想像したこともないのだろう。もともとうまさの味の差なんて「あるかなきか」のものだから隣の空いている店にさっさと行ってしまって当たり前なのだ。
 この「麺の甲子園」シリーズで全国あちこちの麺の現場を見てきたけれど、地方よりも圧倒的に東京に行列が多いということがわかった。さらに行列を作る店はラーメン屋が多い。日本そば屋での行列というのは今回の全国取材でただの一度も見たことはなかった。これだけおびただしい数の「食い物屋」があり、なかんずく、そこそこにうまいラーメン屋がひしめく東京で、なぜ特定の店に行列ができるのだろうか。行列ができる店は「びっくりするほど」うまい、ということなのだろうか。それを身をもって確かめてみる、というのが東京大会の注目点のひとつなのであった。
 で、まずは「武蔵」である。十人前後しか入れないカウンターだけの店の厨房に店員は男二人。動作、言葉てきぱきとして気持ちがいい。その日カウンターに座っている客は全員男だった。丼飯を合わせて食っているガテン系もいて「がしがし」というかんじ。
 注文したのはあじ玉ら~麺八○○円。スープにはなるほど深いものを感じたが、意外なのは麺が太いからなのか全体にごわついていて調和がない。「麺の甲子園」などというルポをやっていながら恥ずかしいのだがぼくはそれほど味がよくわかるというわけではない。強いていえば直感や印象に頼っているところがある。その程度の判断なのだがいきなり「ん?」というかんじだった。新宿と青山ではこのあたりに違いがあるのかも知れないが、行列を作って食べても別にびっくりするほどうまいとは思わなかった。まああえていえばこのくらいのラーメンは一年半体験してきた全国のうまい店平均レベルをいくかいかないかというところである。いい店だけれどこの程度で行列を作ることへの疑問があった。三分の一だけ食って外へ。
 次は、なんと六本木ヒルズであるという。自宅からタクシーで一○分ぐらいのところにある有名な場所ながら、ここに来るのはその日が初めてだった。ぼくを初めとしてコーモリ傘を持った我々五人の男たちの「風景との不適合」ぶりが見事である。全員お上りさん状態でおしゃれな現代建築のかたわらをゴキブリのようにシャカシャカ移動。
 めざすは「竹やぶ」という高級蕎麦屋である。千葉の柏に本店があるという。うーむ千葉か。ぼくは世田谷の三軒茶屋で生まれたが下町の本所を経由して五歳のときに千葉に行き、十九歳までそこで過ごしてまた東京に戻ってきた。だから千葉には愛着がある。今回は取材最終回(次号が全国決勝大会)なので書いておきたいが、人生最初の麺体験は千葉の幕張の「タンメン」であった。世の中にこんなにうまいものがあるのか! と驚いたものだ。以来しばらくタンメンに呪縛されていた記憶があるが、その後あちこちの旅をしてタンメンは案外関東ローカルな存在であったということを知った。
 で、まあ今は六本木ヒルズの「竹やぶ」である。六本木ヒルズといえども千葉県柏出身のこの店には親近感があるなあ、と思ったのだが、入り口からぜんぜん蕎麦屋っぽくないので果して本当にここなのか、と我々はややヒルミ焦ったのであった。
 入り口の店名を指差し確認してなんとか息を殺すようにして入り込み、そっとテーブルを囲んだ。ドロボウネコの集団みたいだ。店の中は静かで西洋風でとても蕎麦屋という雰囲気ではない。
 テーブルに置いてあるメニューがやたら凝っていて、そこに書いてある肉筆文字も凝っており「相田みつを」がやや入っている。
「琴の音がなくてよかったね」
 杉原が囁くように言う。でも笑ったりしてはいけないよ。と低い声で言おうとしたら今泉三太夫がすでに笑っていた。あまりにもインテリアがハイソすぎて三太夫の許容能力を超え、頭がバカになってしまったのだ。
 蕎麦関係で一番安い「せいろそば」一二六○円を注文した。ほかの連中もそれに倣う。だってそれ以上いくとどんどん高くなるのだ。たとえばとろろそばは一五七五円、天せいろは二六二四円である。高知出身の楠瀬は「せいろうどん」一二六○円を注文した。酒も飲める店だからいろいろ肴もあるのだがどうもこっちのほうも焼き味噌は七三五円、わさび漬は六三○円とみんなたいそうなお値段だ。一番安いのが焼のりで五二五円であった。うーむ。何をどう原価計算したらそういう値段になるのだろうか。一同言葉少なになる。義理でやってきたお通夜のようだ。こういう都市新名所のようなところにやってくる人は「いなかもん」がけっこう多く「いなかもん」は一生に一度、などと思っているから高くないと喜ばない、という消費性向がある、という話をニューヨークのアナリストにきいたことがある。
 やがて上品そうな女性が盆にのせた蕎麦とうどんをしずしずと持ってあらわれた。
 上品でタレもおいしく気取ったセイロの上の蕎麦もおいしいような気がしたがなにしろ仏さまにあげるくらいの量しかないので箸を五回上下しただけでもうなくなってしまい確かめようがなかった。
 楠瀬のせいろうどんもいっけん沢山あるように見えたがうつわに板が張ってあってつまりは底上げ方式であった。
 我々は今回のこの一連の取材でうどんの本場高知へ行って一○箇所ぐらいの人気店を取材してきた。どんぶり一杯七五円の、それはそれはうますぎて脳髄が溶けて頭がくらくらするような打ちたて釜揚げの「ひやあつ」なんてのを食ってきた。ではこの店のうどん一杯一二六○円で「ひやあつ」は何杯食えるのだろうか。
「と、いうよりもいまのはセイロの上には大体二○本ぐらいうどんがあったから計算するとうどん一本六三円ですよ。そのうどん一本にあと一二円足すと『ひやあつ』が一杯食えますよ」
 メンバーで一番の大食いの高橋大がのたうつようにしていう。それを聞いてあの賑やかで感動的だった「さぬきうどん黄金街道」を思いだし、一同さらにひっそりとお通夜状態になる。
 次は東急池上線荏原中延駅近くの「多賀野」に行った。ここも男十四人、カップル一組の行列があった。でもピーク時から比べるとこの行列の数はたいへん少ないそうである。その行列のなかにはメタボレベルの人が二人含まれている。一人は【頬/ほお】が首と完全につながっていて腹回りは一・五メートルはあるだろう。この店の常連としたら逆宣伝になるかも知れない。
 この店はラーメン通で有名な小野員裕さんが「東京で一番うまい」と評価しているところです、と杉原が教えてくれた。
 繁盛店らしく厨房に活気がある。店先で入店客の注文をとる若い人のテキパキぶりが素晴らしい。けれどこういう繁盛店にいる客にやや問題があるような気がした。とくにカップルと家族連れというのが問題だ。カウンターにいるカップルの両隣の席があいた。まだ料理が出る前だから二人がちょっと片方にズレてあげれば次の二人連れが座れるのだがカップルにそんな対応神経は微塵もないようだ。カップルの左右の席はあいたまま客はいまだ並んで待っている。状況判断とか隣人との人づきあいの基本といったものが東京の人は希薄のようだ。地方の繁盛店ではそういうことはあまりない。客はどんどん自主的に店に協力しているからだ。家族連れは小さな子供がなかなか食べるのが遅くずっと奥のテーブル席を占領したままだ。幼年にはコクのある味などわからないのだから今の段階ではもっと別な店を選んだほうがいいんじゃないかなあと思うのだがこれもメタボ両親が食いたいからなのだろうなあ。
「中華そば」六○○円。バランスのとれたスープと麺だ。普通に盛られたドンブリ全体が堂々としている印象。厨房は一緒に入ってきたグループの数にあわせて作っているようでその気づかいが嬉しい。カップルは自分らが席をふさいでいることにまったく気づく様子なくずっといちゃいちゃしている。家族連れの子供はもう食べたくない、と泣いている。「食べなさい」と母親が怒っている。
 次は赤坂の「砂場」に行った。何度か来ている有名繁盛店だが店の前に行列はなく中は満員。これが不思議なのだ。ラーメン屋の前には行列を作っていいが蕎麦屋の前は禁止、というキマリがある――わけないよな。蕎麦屋は客に常連が多く、混雑時間のタイミングを知っていて各自コントロールしている。というわけでもないだろう。常連という意味ではラーメンだって同じだ。日本蕎麦のほうができあがるのが早く、すこぶる回転がいいのだろうか。
 繁盛店は愛想がいいか愛想がないかのどちらか――という法則もある。
 この店の従業員は若い女性が多く、コンビニ的無機質対応。「もりそば」五五○円を注文したが作るのが早い、という説は通用するようだ。
「砂場」も量が少ないということで昔から有名だがこれに比べると六本木ヒルズの「竹やぶ」はまったく冗談こきました的に量が少なかった。六本木の料金だと「砂場」では二倍分以上食べられる。そう考えると「砂場」の「もりそば」はけっこう安いのである。
 六本木の「竹やぶ」は量が少ないのを上品と思っているのかもしれない。でも蕎麦はもともと痩せた土地の救済的食物であり、上品とは無関係の食い物である。むしろ要求されるのは「粋」というやつだろう。「粋」に量は関係ないからなあ。
 量ばかり気にするぼくはつくづく野暮な客なのだろうが、ここにはもう一組野暮な客がいた。ぼくの隣の席にいる初老の男と三十代ぐらいの連れの女性はテーブルの上の状態からもうだいぶ前に食べ終わっているらしいのだが、ずっと席を立たず何か熱心に話しこんでいる。会社の上役とその秘書という関係にもとれるが、我々が来てその二人の前の相席の客が二人変わってもまだ話が続いている。繁盛店には迷惑な客だろうなあ。蕎麦屋で話しこむな。下町ではこういうのを「イモ」とよぶ。東京の店は客にもだいぶ問題がありそうである。

神田川のゾンビたち

 西・東京大会は二日に分かれておこなわれた。翌日はまた十一時に集合してやはり大行列店の「べんてん」に行った。「つけめん」が有名だった東池袋の「大勝軒」なきあとその客も吸収したという噂だ。神田川ぞいにきっぱり“熱い”行列があった。若いサラリーマン風が多いがみんな小太り暗め、無言のラーメンゾンビの気配もある。待つこと三十分。食い物屋の行列を異常に思うのは「さもしい」というイメージがあるからだろうか。武士は食わねど――の逆だものなあ。でもこれだけの行列ができるということはやはり「びっくり」するほどうまいからだろうか。
 嫌になるころやっと座れた。店内は席の後ろに何か入ったダンボールがかさなっていて全体に倉庫のように汚い。カウンターだけの席と厨房には二人の男。チーフらしき男に行列のできる繁盛店にありがちな驕りの気配がある。度をこすとえばりまくるタイプだ。「つけめん」を頼んだ。「大盛り」を頼んだ客は却下されていた。量が多いから初心者は無理だという親切心だろうが、その官吏的拒否にやはりこの店を囲むゾンビのような行列がこの店の驕りを作っているとみた。
 やがてびっくりするほど大量のめんが出てきた。つゆはぬるく脂っこくメリハリがない。めんは小麦粉の味が強く炭水化物の固まり、という文字がうかぶ。なんだこれは。こんなところに嬉しそうにゾンビが並ぶからこんなものが崇められるのだろう。
 驚きつつ荻窪にむかった。このコース。むかしよく移動したもんだ。荻窪は東京ラーメンの一時代を作ったところだろう。むかし駅前に立ち食いに近い恰好の店で「丸信」があった。今は四面道のほうの本店だけ。「丸福」はガランとしていた。荻窪はもう進化から止まってしまった、という説もある。
「春木屋」に行った。行列はなかったがほぼ満席。むかしよりいくらか甘くあぶらっこくなった感じがしたがこれは間違いなく懐かしい荻窪の「東京ラーメン」だ。
 つづいて初台の新国立劇場横の立ち食いそば「加賀」へ。このあたりタクシーでよく通るのだが、杉原に教えてもらうまで知らなかった。立ち食い蕎麦界の東京代表であるという。沢山のメニューがあるがタマネギいっぱいのかき揚げを目の前で揚げてくれる。厚さ四センチはありそうなかき揚げをのせた「かき揚げそば」が四○○円。安くてたっぷり。蕎麦なんてこれでいいのだ。本日のこの経過ではとても全部食べられないので、店の貫禄親父に残してしまう非礼を詫びた。かんじのいい親父さんであった。
 ここでインターバル。自宅に帰って今度は夕方浅草の雷門前で再集合ということになった。東京大会はこれができるからいい。

江戸の底力

 今回は同時に懐かしの東京名所巡りの様相にもなってきた。雷門そのものは変わらないが回りの風景が記憶からは随分変わっていた。その日の後半戦はまず「並木 藪蕎麦」から。満員だがここも行列はなく「繁盛蕎麦屋行列なしの法則」にかなっている。
 いかにも筋金入りの老舗、という感じでおばさんの客あしらいもてきぱきとしていて隙がなくこれぞ江戸っ子である。「ざるそば」六五○円を注文。つゆは濃くちょっと蕎麦につけるだけでいい。最後に濃いめの蕎麦湯で素早くしめる。早いうまい安い。こういう店で遅い午後にイタわさぐらいで熱燗の一本も飲んでぱっと蕎麦食って出ていくというのがいいんだろうなあ。
 これで東京の三大蕎麦といわれる神田の「まつや」赤坂の「砂場」そしてこの浅草の店を味わった。東京はやはり蕎麦が強いようだ。
 次はアキハバラへ。ここに来るのも二十年ぶりぐらいだろうか。今は秋葉原とは書かないみたいだな。
 ここにはラーメンの缶詰の自動販売機があるという。アキハバラも久しぶりだ。通りには本当に若いオタク系の男ばかり歩いているので驚いた。気持ちわりー。ラーメンの缶詰というのもやや気持ちわりー。それがアキハバラにだけあるというのも面白い。何人かに聞いて探しあてた自動販売機には三種類あるラーメン缶のすべてが売り切れなのだった。なんかやっぱり気持ちわりー。
 続いて京橋へ突進。旧電通通りに面した銀座インズ3にあるスパゲティスタンドともいうべき流行り店「ジャポネ」に行った。おお! ここもやはり行列である。建物の中であり、カウンターは全部うまっていて、みんな熱心にわしわし食っていて、一人食い終わると行列の先頭の人がそこに座るという仕組み。まあ当然だろうけれど。なんとなく国際空港のイミグレーション、あるいは混んでいるときのみどりの窓口の気分である。
 ならんでいるあいだに行列問題について再び考えていた。ここで初めてラーメン以外の行列に出会ったわけである。しかしこの店はスパゲティといってもその店名があらわしているようにかなり日本特化されていて、ラーメン繁盛店と行列の構造は変わらないような気がする。
 まだこの店は分からないがこの一年半の取材とこの二日間で、行列を作って食った店のすべてがそんなに特別うまいわけではない、ということがわかってきた。さらにラーメン店に並んでいる客にはかなりオタク系の特徴があるということもわかってきた。今回の取材で感じたようにどう考えてもたいしてうまくもない店なのに辛抱強く並んでいる客は、その店の味に取り込まれているか、自主的な価値判断のできない、氾濫するうまいもの情報の中でうろついているだけ、というような簡単な構造もあるようだ。その店の味に刷り込まれている人は並ぶことによって体の内側に精神のドーパミンのようなものが抽出され麻薬に似た陶酔感にひたっている、ということも考えられる。長い行列を耐えた先にその人にとってはささやかながらもかけがえのない、欲求充足の興奮と安らぎがあるからなのかもしれない。行列の人々は個人が多く、あきらかに同好の士である筈なのに彼らの会話がまるでない、というのも不思議ではあった。行列をつくるのは「いなかもん」という図式もあるという。
 東池袋の「大勝軒」が閉店する日、その店のまわりを四○○人の行列ができたというが、その折りにも彼らの会話はなかったのだろうか。
「やめないでくれえええええ」と叫びあう涙の連呼連帯はなかったのだろうか。シュプレヒコールはないのか! ただ静かにだまって「大勝軒」への別れを告げる沈黙の四○○人の行列というのだったらこの国の若者の未来はあまりにも不気味ではないのか。
 エドワール・ホールの『かくれた次元』(みすず書房)の論旨でいえば同一生物の同一行動による安泰、安堵の行動様式も関係しているような気もする。魔境都市に蔓延しがちな共同幻想のセンも考えられる。
「次のかた」と呼ばれてハッとしてカウンターに座った。座ったとたんに「シーナさんですね」と店の人に言われてしまった。明るいところに並ぶからここの行列は目立つ。
 本日それぞれの店をコントロールして食ってきたとはいえもういささか満腹である。ここでは少し食べてあとは残してしまおうと思っていたのだがメンが割れてしまうとどうも残しづらい。醤油味の「ジャポネ」五○○円を頼んだ。それでなくてもここは量が多いので「少なめに」とお願い。隣のカップルの男のほうは大盛りの上をいく「横綱」八○○円という通常の四人前はありそうなのを食っている。杉原情報ではさらにその上に「理事長」というのがあって、これは「横綱」を食べた人でないと注文できないという。本当かよ。ここは相撲協会か。
 ぼくの頼んだ「ジャポネ」は学生アパートのヤケクソ独身スパゲティを彷彿させてなかなかおいしかった。隣のカップルの女のほうはナポリにない「ナポリタン」を食べている。みんな若いサラリーマン風だ。
 新宿三丁目に行って我が常駐居酒屋「池林房」で生ビール。ついでに「ビーフン辛味炒め」を注文し同行のメンバーに食ってもらった。ぼくはときどき食っているから味はよく知っている。七八○円はさっきの「ジャポネ」の大盛り七○○円、横綱八○○円と比べると実に高いんだなあ、ということに気がついた。
 新宿のこのあたりにくるとよく行く煮干し味の「大海ラーメン」を同行メンバーを代表して高橋大に食ってきて貰った。写真が必要だったからだ。東京地区の優勝は難しいだろうがその店は通年一番通っているラーメンかも知れない。いつ行っても空席のほうが多く、従業員の中国系の娘が「いらさませー」と気のない声でそっぽをむいて言う。あまり客がこなくて潰れてしまわないかといつも心配だ。まあとにかく長い道のりをへて漸くわが本拠地に帰ってきた、というところである。
 本拠地といったら新宿駅南口近くの「石の家」のタンメンを忘れてはいけないのだった。二○年前にジャズピアニストの山下洋輔さんに教えてもらってから時々思い出したように食いにいく。
 ぼくが千葉の幕張で初めて「うまい」と思ったタンメンはまだこういう店で命脈をつないでいたのだった。むかし中華料理店であった「石の家」はいまはほぼ居酒屋に変質した。何時いっても酔っぱらいの新宿ガキ女どもがギャーギャーとアヒルのような声で大騒ぎしているから今はあまり長居できず、ぼくはここでは酒類は飲まず憧憬の「タンメン」だけたべて帰る。ひさしぶりのそれはむかし感心したようなうまさはもうなかった。やっぱり年月は居酒屋の「ついでの麺」に身をやつしてしまったのだろうか。
 付記。買えなかったラーメン缶が編集部から送られてきた。缶ビールを一回り小さくした感じで「札幌らーめん缶」(二九○グラム)と書いてある。プラスチックの折り畳み式フォークがついていてその場で食べられる。熱い醤油味と冷し麺。蒟蒻を使った麺スタイル。小さなメンマが四、五キレ入っていた。スープは確かにラーメン。この自動販売機の前にアキハバラのオタク青年たちが沈黙の行列をつくっているのだとしたらやだな。
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