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第2回 讃岐うどん ひやあつぐねぐね 街道を行く (前編)
世界最大のうどんスーパー

 麺喰いがしがし団は団長のぼくをいれて五人。いつものメンバーである。今回はいきなり高松に突入してうどんを食い、うどんを食い、うどんを食うのである。なにしろ目指すは日本最大最強のうどん大国。
 つーことは東洋最大、つーことであり、東洋最大つーことはアジアつーか、まあ早い話が世界最大のうどん大国、ということになるではないか。
 そうであったのか!
 さがりおろう! 冷麺ひやそーめん。味噌ラーメンにタンタンメン。五目あんかけそばにわんこそば。えーい頭が高いというに高頭辛味ダイコン手打ち蕎麦め。手打ちにしてくれる。
 あいや失礼。高頭ではなく高遠であったか。そちの国もとは信州であったな。上田の真田幸村は達者にしておるか。むははははは。
 などと無意味にいばりつつ麺喰いがしがし団一行が最初にめざしたのは多肥下町の「いきいきうどんレインボー通り店」。市内最大のセルフうどん店である。
第2回 讃岐うどん ひやあつぐねぐね 街道を行く (前編)_f0039305_15475025.jpg

 座席数二○○。駐車場六○台。朝六時から夜八時まで営業という高松最大のうどん店である。つーことは、さっきの「つーことは理論」でいうと世界最大のうどん屋ということになる。
「つーことは朝六時から車六○台でのりつけてきた二○○人の高松市民がここで先を争ってうどんを食っているということであるな。まことに左様か」
 すっかりバカ殿様と化したバカ団長は家来の今泉に扇子のかげから聞く。
「いや、先を争ってかどうかはわかりませんが安くてうまくて何時でも入れるのでたいへん流行っているという噂ですが」
 到着してみると休業みたいである。いやそれにしては電灯はついているしよく見ると奥の厨房らしきところに白い服を着たおばさんらしき姿がみえる。しかしどうも暇そうである。
「世界最大などと言いよって客もいなくてなあにが……」
「いや、客の姿も見えます。一人だけですが。あっ、うどんを食ってます」
「なに、うどんを食っている人がいる? 口からか」
「いかにも」
 バカ家来と化した今泉は客がいてうれしそうだ。中はまるで体育館のようだった。蛍光灯の下の無人のスチールパイプが鈍くひかり、寂寥たる気配だ。
 厨房らしきところにカウンターがあってそこにいろんな惣菜が並んでいる。アジフライ、メンチカツ、カレーコロッケ、かき揚げ、ゲソ天、ちくわ天、油揚げ、おぼろ昆布、生タマゴなどなどいっぱいある。
 客は厨房からドンブリに入ったうどんをもらい、近くにある小さな風呂みたいな湯の中で振りザルに入れたうどんをあたため、さっきの惣菜のなかから好みのものをうどんにのせてレジのところに行き、そこでおばちゃんに何と何を乗せたか検閲してもらってお金を払い、そのあと自分でツユをいれる。全体の流れからいくとこのツユはタダのような状態なのでついダボダボと沢山入れてしまう。それからその気になれば惣菜のひとつぐらいはうどんの下に隠しておばちゃんの検問から惣菜一品をごまかすことができそうだ。
「な。できるだろう。手早くやれば」
 今泉に鋭い発見を告げる。
「いかにも」
 パイプ椅子をひっぱり出してやはりタダに思える沢山の種類がある薬味をいれてワリバシを歯でくわえプチンと割る。ここまで作法としては完璧だったような気がする。
 今は時間的にいって客が一番少ないときかもしれないが、ここに二○○人の高松市民がすわって全員でうどんをズルズルやっている光景を想像するとやはりある種の戦慄がはしる。うどんのスーパーということなのだろうか。うどんにかき揚げと油揚げをいれて三○○円もしなかった。安い、広い、まあまあ普通にうまい。
 ホテルについて一休みしたあと「饂飩家五右衛門」に行った。酔街の真ん中にある。横濱カレーミュージアムにも出品したというカレーうどんがおすすめというのでそれを注文したがいわゆる東京や横浜によくある「家系ラーメン」のうどん版というところだろうか。カレーにうどんが負けている。まあガキのカップル向け程度か。

やわ肌ふわふわ……に悶える

 高松に最初にうどんを食いにきたのは一九八四年のことだった。『週刊ポスト』の取材で初めて宇高連絡船に乗ってやってきた。連絡船にのる宇部の船着場に立ち食いうどん店があり客がたかっている。連絡船に乗るとみんな走っているのでどうしたことかとわけも分からずぼくも走っていくと甲板にうどん店があり、瀬戸内海を見ながらうどんをすするのが「うどん王国」にはいっていく仁義であるということを知った。さらに高松港につくとそこにもうどん店があり、みんなまたその店に走っていくのを見て気持ちが引き締まり、腹が弛むのを感じた。
 市内に入るとうどん屋がいたるところにあるので驚いた。
 うどん屋、花屋、靴屋、うどん屋、雑貨屋、本屋、うどん屋、魚屋、うどん屋、米屋、うどん屋、葬儀屋、うどん屋、帽子屋、うどん屋、質屋、うどん屋。
 喫茶店にはいってメニューをみると「ダッチコーヒー、カフェカプチノ、カフェウインナ、カフェベルボン、おかめうどん、おろしうどん、冷しうどん」などと書いてある。
 十数店のうどん屋を行き、高松おそるべしを実感した。それから一九九八年に『週刊現代』の取材で主に丸亀界隈のうどんディープゾーンを探索し、ここら一帯は製麺所系のセルフうどん勃興の時代に入っていることを確認した。そしてついに本年、公式な(どこが?)麺喰い査察団として王国に突入した、というわけである。
 探訪するうどん屋の選定は麺喰い団メンバーの杉原、楠瀬両審議官が『地元うどん通をうならせたさぬきうどん決定版』と『さぬきうどん全店制覇攻略本・二○○五年度版』の二冊の調査報告書つーか、まあアンチョコを持って針路を決定した。
 次の日の最初の店は超有名店のひとつ、綾上町の「山越うどん」であった。創業六五年。製麺所を母体にスタートしたがあれよあれよという間に人気店になって今や駐車場台数九○。客席一五○の大きな店になっている。すなわち、わしらはいきなりさぬきうどん戦線の強者との対決となったのである。
 市内から遠いので朝七時半に出発して九時に到着。製麺所系は朝早く開店して午後にはもう終わってしまうところが多い。
 何もない田舎の町にいきなりちょっとした「うどんランド」のような店があった。驚いたことにもうまわりに沢山の車が止まっていて沢山の客がいる。入っていくと白い仕事着姿のおばちゃんが元気よく接客し、その奥でうどんを叩いたり踏み延ばしたり茹でたりしている人が大勢いていかにも活気がある。
 釜からあげたばかりのあつあつのうどんに生タマゴと山芋のとろろをかけたものにダシを少量かける『釜上げ卵山かけうどん』(二○○円)通称「かまたまやま」というのを注文した。
 もうその段階で刺激的なダシの匂いが鼻孔をつく。空腹でもあり、よろけるようにして葦簾の前の席に座り、うどんにタマゴとトロロをからめる。
第2回 讃岐うどん ひやあつぐねぐね 街道を行く (前編)_f0039305_1631720.jpg

 コノヤロ、コノヤロ。
 いや別にいじめているのではない。熱いうちに手早くタマゴとトロロをまぜたほうがいいらしいのだ。掛け声をかけたほうが力が入るではないの。
 コノヤロ、コノヤロ。
 タマゴとトロロはどちらからともなく手をさしのべるようにしてゆっくり、しかし確実に溶けあい、たがいをみつめあいたがいを刺激しあい、全体が淡くあわだつ薄黄に色づいたところでためらうことなくどんぶりいっぱいにのたうつうどんに激しく強く全身でからみついていくのだった。おお見よ。はやくも陶然としたうどんが頬をあからめとろとろうねって喜悦のねばねば状態へと移行していくではないか。
 コーフンし、我をうしなったようによろよろと割り箸の帯じゃなかった袋をひきちぎる。あれえええ。かぼそい声を聞きながらついにひとくちすする。つづいて汁をのむ。さらにもうひとくち。間をおかずに汁をおむじゃなかったのむ。ついついもうひとくち。
 おお。腰がしっかりしているのになんというやわらかでふくよかな感触のうどんなのだ。それでいてきっぱりとした「やるときはヤル!」という芯のつよさが深みのあるタレの包容力の中に底力として見え隠れする。釜あげの熱さの中ですでにはんぶんがたとろけ「ああわたしもうだめ」とタマゴのタマちゃん、トロロのトロちゃんらが悶えるようにしてやわ肌をゆすっている。
「おお、ういやつよ。もそっととろけろ。わるいようにはせんぞ」
 フト横をみると今泉が油あげとちくわの天ぷらをのせたドンブリを片手にあやしい横目でこちらを眺めニヤリと笑ったところだった。口からちくわが二センチほどはみ出ている。
「ううむ。今泉、おぬしも悪よのう」

ハゲタカの舞う下へ

 続いて攻めるはそこから三十分ぐらい行った山里のいくらか山道を登ったところにある「やまうち」。山小屋ふうの店構えで大量の薪の山に説得力がある。ここも製麺所系であり、釜は火力の強い薪で焚いているという。かざり気のない安食堂風の店の中にはやはり先客がいた。メニューは簡潔に「ひやあつ」「ひやひや」「あつあつ」「あつひや」。
 ぼくはここで初めてさぬきうどんにこういう組み合わせがあるということを知った。「ひやあつ」(二○○円)を注文。癖のないおだやかな日だまりのようなやさしいうどんであった。ハッタリがないのがいい。さっき強烈なのを食ってしまったのでうまさの評価という点ではここは不利だ。何も食わずにまっさきにここにきたなら厨房のお兄さんに握手をしに行ったであろう。
 そう思ったら厨房の青年が出てきて、ぼくの名前を知っていて色紙に「いい仕事してるぞ」と書いてくれと先方から言われた。修業中であるという。いい青年であった。そのとおり書いて握手した。
第2回 讃岐うどん ひやあつぐねぐね 街道を行く (前編)_f0039305_1621948.jpg

 店の端のほうの席で大盛りを食うのに全身で没頭し、ハフハフやってリズミカルに上下している男の丸い背に窓から入る日差しが光り、うどん食いの喜びが溢れていた。フトさっきの色紙に
「うどんだもの」まこと
 と書けばよかったかなあ、と思ったがもう遅い。我々は急がねばならなかった。
(続く)
by shiina_rensai | 2006-04-25 15:54 | Comments(325)
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