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小説新潮『麺の甲子園』連載版外伝 椎名流・おいしい店の見分け方 後編
(承前)
店に入ると、ぼくの場合、真っ先に厨房に目が行きます。
厨房の人数はもちろん多いほどいい。
これもお客さんの数に比例する。
小説新潮『麺の甲子園』連載版外伝 椎名流・おいしい店の見分け方 後編_f0035410_17523150.jpg

続いて目は自然とメニューへ。
そこでメニューの多い店は要警戒

理由は2つあります。
ひとつは具とかトロみによるバリエーションはコケオドシ的ということ。
本当にうまい店は、麺とスープやつゆで勝負できる。
無理にメニューを増やす必然性はないんですよ。

もうひとつは業務用の半完成冷凍品を使っている可能性。
メニューが多いのに、働いている人が少ないと、
実はそういうケースもあります。
これには充分気をつけてください。

メニューは壁に張ってあるから、
厨房の次は壁を見ろってことでもある。
小説新潮『麺の甲子園』連載版外伝 椎名流・おいしい店の見分け方 後編_f0035410_17521543.jpg

壁といえば、芸能人、有名人の色紙を貼っている店は
どうしても好きになれません。
有名人の色紙の文字は読めないものが多い。
だから、わざわざ名前を書き足してあることもあるけれど、
そんなに有名じゃないレポーターだったりして(笑)。

つまり、他人の権威を笠に着ているんです。
見た目も心情的にも美しくないでしょ。
TVのロケで、芸能人が来たときにサインをもらうんだろうから
そこそこうまいとは思うけど、ぼくはそういう店は嫌いです。

特にラーメン屋で言うと、
テレビの音がやたらにうるさい店もダメ。
だって、音量を大きくしているのは
客じゃなくて、店のため、自分のためでしょう。

テレビといえば、面白い話があります。
最近はサンフランシスコでも日本のラーメン屋が大はやり。
で、どの店も大音量でテレビをつけていた。
彼らは日本のラーメン屋って、そういうものだと思っているんですね。
これは誤った認識ですが、外国人にすれば、
それだけオカシな状況ということです。

最後になりますけど、味の良し悪しには土地柄があるので、
自分の好きな味とまったく方向性が違うエリアでは
おいしいと思わないことをあらかじめ覚悟しなきゃいけない。
ラーメンでは、ぼくは煮干系のあっさりしょうゆが好きだけど、
とんこつ好きのこってり派がそういうエリアに来ても
がっかりするだけかもしれません。
そのへんは差し引いて考えるべきでしょうね。

………………………………………………………………………………

「地方のおいしいお店の見分け方」は以上です。
麺の甲子園の取材はまだまだ続きます。
そろそろ決勝戦も近づいて参りました。
はたして、どの麺が優勝するのか。
今後の熱闘に、乞うご期待。
(レポート:海仁
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